Monday, February 9, 2009

Pretty Women Drivin' Me Crazy

It's been quite a while since I've posted anything. Learning a lot in the kitchen, taking tons of notes and will eventually get them into actual recipe form.
I just got back from a big organic bakery in the hills near here. Unfortunately, it's really foggy this morning and I couldn't see the amazing countryside very well. The owner speaks English, so I will go there to work for three days next month. Great breads and pastry and a huge (think two king size beds) woodfired oven that the owner built himself inside the building. I'll be taking pictures there.
Tomorrow (or at least I'm told) we are going to slaughter pigs that we'll make into salumi and prosciutto on Thursday or Friday. Roberto, the restaurant's co-owner thinks he can set me up with a stage next year doing this exclusively. That time 'round, I'd have to be fluent.
We had another American stage work here Saturday. It was nice to be able to speak American English for a change. He is executive chef of a restaurant in Lawrence, KS. Mostly self taught and his stuff looks really great. If you're ever in Lawrence, check out his place http://www.tellerslawrence.com/
I've been listening to way too much Elvis, but the guys here love it. In my spare time, I've been absorbing Spring Creek's newest album due out in May. Alex hooked me up with the password to download directly from the studio. It's definitely "shiny" compared to their first two. The title of this post is the name of a Taylor (guitar player) song on the album that seems more than fitting for my experience here. Here's a little preview of the album http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGQ__-lbb98
Well, that's about all for now. I'm gonna try to update more often. I'm really trying to plan all of the things I want to do in the next 50 or so days I have left. I have a lot of food things to do and also see more of Europe and Italy, so maybe things will actually be interesting for the rest of you.
P

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Just a pic




Too tired to write anything tonight. Just thought I'd share a shot from skiing today. If you look closely, you can see the Adriatic Sea in the background.

Monday, January 19, 2009

Daino-Myte!... I really coudn't resist.


Moments after my last post, as we were (thankfully) delaying cleaning up the kitchen, the restaurant's game man showed up. Not like in the states at all, though. This guy, who's name has slipped my mind, showed up with half a daino (deer, basically) in that back of his Fiat. OK, it wasn't really a Fiat, but it was a half of an animal that was probably shot today in the back of his car. I was like a kid in a candy store! This isn't how "wild game" happens in the United States, even in CO where it's practically a required menu item. Within five minutes, it was broken down by Stefano and hanging in our meat cooler. In about a week, we will be having an entire feast celebrating this beautiful animal. What I know so far is a marinata of the tenderloin, a BRT roast of the hind quarter and a ragu with the shoulder. This leaves a little left along with quite abit of bones for stock, so I'll keep you posted! Like everything else, I'm quite excited about this development.



P

Correction - Carpacio

Turns out that my recipe for carpacio the other day was wrong. I was describing "marinata di daino". The salt cure with tuscan aromatics (the bay and juniper) is technically a marinata, a way to preserve back in the day. I guess if you took this further, it would be similar to a bresaola. In Italy, where carpacio originates, it is not cured or cooked at all but sliced raw. The searing we do is a French version of the dish.
Hopefully more to come tonight.
P

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Just checking in... with limoncello and sambuca recipes


Just thought I'd check in and say a few things. Things are going very well here at Toscani da Sempre. It is a little slow after almost a month of feasting for the holidays. I'm learning alot from Stefano and Roberto. They have the most amazing passion for food. It is incredibly inspiring. A few things I am looking forward to soon are visiting the Mercato Centrale in Firenze to check things out in general, but mainly to do a side-by-side Prosciutto tasting. Hmm... a dozen or more types of ham, heaven! Also visiting Roberto's other job, which exports Tuscan wines, cheeses and other artisinal products around the world. We will see cheeses being made, among other mouthwatering things I'm sure. A local bakery to make some wood fired breads. And... (saving the best for last) to go to slaughter and cure local pork (Suino Cinto is the DOP) into salumi, proscuitto etc...
I'm also looking forward to try to get some skiing in this winter. Stefano's sister has a place at a local resort, so I've been promised a few days to go and ski. Italy is supposedly having an incredible winter for snow, so this is pretty exciting. Also going to try to visit my friend Maria in Greece for a few days. Should be a nice little sub-tropical vacation!
I've got plenty of new recipes to get to you all (Charles, Jen, Kevin...), but thought I'd start with the excitement of the day. Johansen, maybe some could be ready for our little class reunion in April?
Limoncello and Sambuca
Limoncello [limon'tʃɛlːo] is a lemon liqueur produced in Southern Italy, mainly in the region around the Gulf of Naples, the Sorrentine Peninsula and the coast of Amalfi and islands of Procida, Ischia and Capri, but also in Sicily, Sardinia, Menton in France and the Maltese island of Gozo. It is made from lemon rinds (traditionally from the Sorrento lemon, though most lemons will produce satisfactory limoncello), alcohol, water, and sugar. It is bright yellow in color, sweet and lemony, but not sour since it contains no lemon juice.
from wikipedia, just for a little history lesson
These are made in a very similar fashion. There are many variations and different flavors to make, but these are two basic ones. The picture above is from the restaurant. You can see a limoncello infusion in process in the center. We finished two today (I really only watched).
Limoncello:
Peel or zest (peeling is better) 8 - 12 organic lemons, making sure you leave no bitter white pith. Organic is stressed because we don't want to make an infusion of the part of the lemon covered in insecticides and fertalizer. Cover in 1 liter of pure alcohol - I guess everclear would be the thing to use in the states. Cover tightly and place in a cool room for one to one and a half months. Do not refridgerate. Using a cool canning jar allows you to display your project.
After one month, the peel should be leather-like and break when bent. If not, let infuse a little longer. Strain this through a chinois or wet coffee filter. Wetting the filter makes a great deal of difference for all straining, same for using a linen for consume. Clean the jar you infused in, you will need it again.
Make a simple syrup with one Kilogram of sugar and 2 liters of water. Roberto likes to make some of his with caramalized sugar. I bet it would be really good, although not as nicely colored, with turbadino sugar. Cool this completely and add to jar with infusion. Allow this to age for 15 more days at room temperature. After 15 days, filter again and pour into small bottles and cork. The longer they are aged, the more they mellow.
Sambuca:
This is made in exactly the same way, but it is much easier. To one liter of pure alcohol, infuse 35 grams (that's an ounce and a quarter, some of you know this though) of star anise and anise seeds. This is a combined weight, not 35 g each. Not sure of the ratio. Also add 15 grams of whole roasted coffee beans. Cover and store one month.
Filter and mix with same amount of syrup, but use white sugar and do not caramalize. Also age 15 days before bottling.
That's enough for today,
Ciao!

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Tuesday in Firenze

A few pics from Tuesday in Firenze





Toscani Da Sempre

My home and workplace for the next 2 1/2 months


"la caverna" dates back to the 16th century. The rest is post war.









































Salsa Medicia - caramalized onion, red wine vinegar, dried fruits, toasted almonds and walnuts with pork jus.
Guttus-Sheep's milk blue
Pula - Cow's milk blue. Both are Tuscan, I'll go soon to see them produced
Prosciutto Tuscano - More savory than Parma or San Dannielle, which are considered sweet proscuitto. I can't stop eating this stuff!