January 7, 2009
I’m finally here! I got in last night, the sixth at about eight thirty pm. Had to take a shuttle and a train to the restaurant b/c the city was jam packed for a holiday.
The restaurant is small, about 35 seats and somewhat casual. I’ll take pictures tomorrow. I really loved the décor, very clean and sharp. I especially love the table and chairs and how the menu is presented. The tables are simple square hardwood tops with plain white linen placemats and linens. The really cool thing is the slots cut into the edges where your linens are hung and the swing-out arm that holds the nights menu (I assume it changes regularly) until you choose, then the menu is taken away and the arm swings under the table, or the lady can hang her purse. Silver is smart and modern as are the water glasses which appear to be hand blown (maybe semi-one of a kind) with orange glass accents. Orange is the accent color of the whole place, with postmodern (probably not correct, but I don’t know art) molded plastic chairs (comfortable and casual) and floor to ceiling abstract paintings in shades of orange. Floors are slate and walls are both white concrete and sleekly paneled wood. Music is very Euro jazz, verging on trance that works very well in the room. A small brick and stone lined wine cellar sits off the main dining area. It looks unfinished at the moment and looks like it could someday be small private dining room for 8-12 guests. In America, where there aren’t great butchers/salumi makers around every corner, I would hang some meat in there too.
Of course I was hungry when I arrived and I had decided to save my months budget and not buy truffles, foie gras and caviar in the Zurich airport because I knew (hoped) Stefano would be feeding me. I was seated almost immediately and had a near perfect dinner. Roberto, Stefano’s business partner and the restaurant’s waiter, sommelier, host, tableside carver and dishwasher took care of the front of house. He’s very friendly and good at what he does, I have no question he is just as big a part of the restaurant’s success as Stefano. I would have liked to have the chef just send me what he liked, but I got the impression that I should order off the menu. My first item was the amuse (I’m sure they would hate that I use the French term). It was simply wood grilled eggplant with local olive oil, garlic and herbs on some crusty bread. I don’t even like eggplant! Mind changer. Perfect in one bite, simple and full of flavor without any bells and whistles. Far better and more simple than the amuse I enjoyed at one of Chicago’s finest just a few nights earlier. For my antipasti, I was served Proscuitto Tuscano with a little more crusty bread spread with local fresh fig compound butter (this is not Land O’ Lakes.) That was it! Again, a few ingredients and some very nice Chianti deliver everything one could need to make the mouth very happy. I haven’t pinpointed the subtle differences between Tuscan Proscuitto and Parma (or any of the many more I can’t wait to get my teeth into), but that’s all part of the journey. I can tell you it was very good. *** Again, simplicity ruled on the next course. A bowl of what we would call linguine (can’t remember the name) with some fresh spinach sauteed in olive oil and a little garlic. This was topped with a little grated semi-firm goats milk cheese and a little more olive oil. Finally, a perfectly sautéed pork loin with exquisite marbleing and even a little crackling attatched, all topped with orange pieces and an orange pork jus. A few perfect cannellini beans completed the dish. Although just a touch salty, but a great ending to a wonderful first meal in Italy. I cannot wait to get in this kitchen and learn!
Tomorrow we go to the market. I’ll keep you posted, as soon as I get a new transformer.

*** this is where i realize i'm frying my euro>american power converter